Here you’ll find every scrap of info I can find on your boat. How she is built, how to fix her up and how to improve on what is already great. Thanks to the generous efforts of Ken Wheeler, the former production manager on the Ranger 26 at the Kent factory, who has opened his archive of knowledge, I have many technical drawings, sketches, descriptions and suggestions to help us keep the fleet “together” as it were.

I’ll add more as I have time but just to get things started… Ranger26lr

Ranger 26 Specifications

Boat Model: Ranger 26
Length on Deck (LoD): 24.75 ft
Length at Waterline (LWL): 22 ft
Beam: 8 ft
Sail Area (SA): 320 ft2
Displacement (Weight): 4750 lbs

Mast Raising & Lowering Instructions

Several skippers that have purchased a used Ranger 26’s have asked about the proper steps for raising and lowering the mast. Below are the manufacturer provided instructions.

Personally, I’ve never done it quite this way, but it does work and is probably a bit safer than my “approved” method of putting a snap block on the bowsprit attachment point (the one furthest back from the bow) and then running a long line from the bow stay (tied with a bowline through the turnbuckle), through the block and back to the cockpit wench. I then have a couple of conscripted sailors dead lift the mast by brute force (much grunting and complaining is often heard) into the upright position on the house top mast step, while a higher ranking officer mans the wench to keep tension on the line and act as a safety in case one or more of the sailers gets distracted by a pint of grog mid lift! Once the the mast is up, I secure the bow stay with a clevis pin and then proceed to tighten the stays and tune the rigging while the sailers lay prostrate on the deck, dock or just float off with the current.

Mast Raising/Lowering diagram for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

Mast Raising/Lowering diagram for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

Mast Raising/Lowering instructions sheet for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

Mast Raising/Lowering instructions sheet for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

 

Jiffy Reefing Diagram

The Ranger 26 Doesn’t come with a Jiffy Reefing option, but many skippers have added Jiffy Reefing to their boats, and for good reason. Jiffy Reefing lets you drop your sail and keep it all tidy and easy to bungee up for storage on the boom. No more epic sail verses man battles on the high sea!

Jiffy Reefing Diagram for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

Jiffy Reefing Diagram for the Ranger 26 sailboat, Kent Washington.

 

Tech-R26-Mast-Stanchion-Assembly-300dpi

Ranger 26 – Mast Stanchion Assembly

 

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Ranger 26 – Mast Strut – When pulling your center board to repair or replace, you’ll want to refer to this.

 

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Ranger 26 – Mast Pedestal Detail – When mounting and running your main rigging to the house top for single handing, refer to this.

 

 

Centerboard Replacement

Probably the one Achilles heel of the Ranger 26 is the centerboard design. What is great about it is that you can pull it up when in 28″ of water, lower it part way when reaching, and put it all the way down to assist when pointing. This humble little swing board turns the ranger from a wallowing sow into a reasonable performer when sailing or even close quarters maneuvering. It also has been know to fall out and disappear. Not many, but a couple times Ranger skippers have found themselves dragging their board, or even losing it altogether. Not fun, but not insurmountable to repair or replace. Here age drawings that will help you do so if you ever find your self up the creek without a centerboard.

 

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Ranger 26 Centerboard Trunk

 

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Ranger 26 Centerboard Wood Replacement Detail

 

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Ranger 26 Centerboard & Shackle Detail

 

NOTE: Below is part of another owners solution to the centerboard drop out problem in case anyone finds it useful. There might be more information and photos on the Yahoo Groups thread.

From: KentRanger26Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KentRanger26Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pantybuncher
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 3:07 PM
To: KentRanger26Boats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KentRanger26Boats] Re: Another Question – Stuck Centerboard

My board has one other modification that may be of interest. It is permanently pinned in place. A half inch stainless pin has been drilled through keel and board at the pivot point, and sealed in place. At first I worried about this modification (done 7 or more years ago by a previous owner). Would it allow water into the hull or board? Would bottom painting be more difficult? But I have found it easy to live with, noticed no problems arising from it, and the sense of security, that the board simply is not going to be lost, is very nice. I recommend it.>>

looks like i need to make some repairs to my swing keel as well. the pivot points on the keel are worn/broken. i have not managed to look up the keel-slot yet. it seems that a pin as above is a potential option…or in my case, perhaps not pinning the entire centerboard, only use a pin to replace the fiberglass pivot points. if I did go with a complete pin all the way through….it does seem somewhat attractive(and secure), I wonder how they centered the drill location.

I also need to order a swing keel cable. is there someone you could recommend that can easily sell me the exact part I need, or will i have to make a detailed drawing to get it exactly right ?

thx

Andy

My Response on the thread…

Hi Andy,

Wow! I’ve never heard of that modification! I do remember hearing of people who have lost their center boards though, which would not be a good thing, but not a danger to the boat. Sounds like that would fix that… I wonder how they figured out exactly where to drill the hole… I guess you could create some sort of jig to line things up.

I can imagine a full day of futzing to figure that out! 😉

Personally, I think I would pin the board with a bronze pipe filled with marine text or epoxy… drilling through the keel sounds like more work than it’s worth with lots of opportunity to screw up where you put the hole! Plus, you’ll lose a good 50 lbs. or more of lead down low in your keel with down there will affect your boats stiffness so then you’ll have to add some sacks of shot in the bilge to help compensate, probably 100 or more lbs. (guessing) We added 200lbs of shot to our bilge area (before it gets deep) and it helped stiffen the boat nicely.

The cable is just a standard stainless steel cable with a swaged loop on one end, any rigging shop can look at the one you take out and make one up for you just like it.

Its best to have it either swaged on the house top after installation so you can attach a line to it, for going through the jam cleat on the house top back my the cockpit, along with your pull handle. Or, you could maybe have someone do that cool braid/weave together of the SS cable into the rope… with no SS lope on the upper end…

In any case, you can’t have them put the loops on both ends because they you’ll never get the cable through the pipe, around the pulley in the sheave, and up the ¾” CPVC pile that goes up to the house top and out from under the mast step.

If you drill through the keel… take a lot of pictures and do a video explaining your process to post on youtube! It will get at least 2 views (one by you and one by me! 😉

Bruce

 

 

 

10 thoughts on “Tech Drawings

  1. Julie Perkins

    In love with a 1978 Kent Ranger 26. Widow who is selling has very little information on it, and am having a hard time finding much on the web. Thanks for information you have provided. Any idea what a current average price would currently be? Owner does not know what its worth is. Thank you for any help you can provide.

    • ranger26@searl.com

      Hi Julie,

      We’ve had our Ranger for decades and are still in love with it, so I know the feeling! I don’t know the current price of a good used R26, but I would bet they fall into the 7-12K range depending on condition, extras, trailer. It makes me sad to hear about a widow selling her husbands boat. They probably have lots of memories on it together. Best of luck to you. Bruce

  2. Julie Perkins

    Thank you so very much for your response! Love this boat…tons of character, and seaworthiness as well. 1978 ranger has been kept in pristeen condition, and has a custom trailer, and dinghy included. Owner is asking 21,000. We were not surprised when we found no others in the southeast. However, we just returned from Whidbey Island in Washington, and no one we talked to at several marinas had a clue what we were talking about. Must be a cult boat! Mostly, just worried about finding parts- should they be needed. Current owner went to Washington and trailered it back to Georgia. Where did you find yours?

    • ranger26@searl.com

      We got ours from the factory way back in 1977 or ’78 I think, new from a dealer in Portland on the Columbia river. I remember boarding her when we were kicking hulls up there looking for a boat to buy. it was love at first sight for us all. I was just 17, but my Mom & Dad loved it just as much.

      That price might be fine if it’s outfitted for sea water cruising with nice electronics and other amenities. Only about 80 hulls were produced because the economy took a slump and the sail boat market ran a ground… the only companies that were able to stay afloat with larger boats were those like Catalina, which made a much cheaper boat through economy of scale and simpler design and stripped down interior. They were nice enough boats, just not built like the Ranger in so many ways.

      Most parts that matter, you can find or replace with newer stuff. The only one that was a problem for us was the Stanchion Sheave. You can read about it here on the site and know that I have a perfect replacement part that I created from our failed one. It and the swing board are the only weak points of this boat but there are fixes or repair instructions here for those. you’ll not have to worry about much of anything else.

      My round port hole lights are falling apart (plastic) and I’ve not found a replacement for them yet, (other than the beautiful but expensive bronze ones listed on the resource page) but I might create some of those this winter if I get around to it. If I do, I’ll have a little bit more affordable option for those you could use if yours ever give out. All in all… the boat is way overbuilt and very stout. Very few failure points on it.

      I think the thing I love about the Rangers is that while they may not be the swiftest racing boat on the water, they handle nicely, are built very well, are great for actually living on when cruising and they literally ooze charm!

      Bruce

  3. George

    That’s great! My wife and I are picking up a refurbished Kent ranger 26 this week! I’m glad that you have this site, not only for the information, but also to be part of a small group of owners of a rare beauty!

  4. John R Frank

    Just bought a 1974 Ranger 26 (Kent, WA version). All stripped down inside and out. Now prepping, then painting, then putting interior back together.

    I was wondering two things:
    1. Does anyone have a diagram of the deck gear placement including rigging. I was given a box of blocks and gear and a deck full of holes.

    2. A diagram of the wiring in the interior. I have wiring throughout the cabin, with a elec panel. Not sure which are for lights, the mast, or other.

    I have restored 4 sailboats and learning everyday. This is my biggest project to date.
    Thanks,
    John

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